<![CDATA[Frozen Rotors News]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog Mon, 19 Nov 2018 18:48:50 GMT Mon, 19 Nov 2018 18:48:50 GMT LemonStand <![CDATA[Brake Rotor Burnishing]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT Recommendation: Always advise your customers/clients to observe a running in period.

Street Duty
Brake only moderately and briefly during the first 200 miles over a mixed itinerary. Avoid prolonged pad to rotor contact.

Race Cars

To break in your rotors make 12-24 progressively harder decelerations, making sure not to bring the rotor to over 700 degrees Fahrenheit . Don’t drag your brakes. After your rotors have cooled completely inspect them for a smooth surface. Look for any localized brake pad material buildup. If buildup is found have the rotors machined or replace them, as buildup can cause brake judder.

Repeat the above process once your rotors are completely cooled. This procedure thermally conditions your rotors and will reduce the possibility of thermal shocking.

Heavy Use (Police, Ambulance, and High Performance)
Have Technicians make 5 decelerations from 70 to 50 mph. Firm on the brake pedal. Drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 40 mph. Firm on brake pedal. Don’t slam on brakes. Again, drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes and then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 30 mph. Cool brakes for two or three miles then park car and allow brakes to cool completely. When brake rotors return to ambient temperature repeat this entire process one more time. The brake rotors are how burnished and are ready for service!

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[The Importance of Changing Your Vehicle's Brake Fluid]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid Wed, 03 Oct 2018 00:00:00 GMT

The Purpose of Brake Fluid 

 Brake fluid is the "hydraulic fluid" used in the braking system to facilitate the transfer of force from the brake pedal to pressure on the caliper piston in order to effectively slow your car down. However, in order for the brake fluid to effectively enable this process, the fluid must be able to resist compression and remain in a liquid state despite the heat produced by the friction created in the braking process.

 

Why Replace Your Brake Fluid?

 Because of the described heat created in the brake lines from the braking process, brake fluid needs to be heat tolerant with a high boiling point. If your brake fluid boils, gasses are released into the brake lines which can reduce the efficiency and effectiveness of the braking system. This is what can cause a mushy pedal, and sometimes complete failure of the brakes.

Unfortunately brake fluid compounds that tend to be heat tolerant, also tend to be hygroscopic-that is they attract and absorb moisture. Moisture can enter the brake system through the rubber seals and brake hoses. Because the boiling point of water is lower than the boiling point of the brake fluid, the absorption of this moisture can cause the boiling point of your brake fluid to decrease to what is known as the "wet boiling point." Over time, as your brake fluid absorbs more moisture and becomes less heat tolerant, it may need replacement to prevent subsequent brake failure. Additionally, this moisture can cause corrosion (rusting) on the inside of the braking system which can also deteriorate the brake lines. While most brake fluid contains anti-corrosives, these degrade over time and become less efficient at preventing internal rusting.

 

How Often Should You Change Your Brake Fluid?

How often you should change your brake fluid depends on your vehicle's manufacturer and the type of driving that you do. For the average daily commuter, we recommend changing your brake fluid every 2-3 years (or every 30k miles) for optimal brake maintenance. However, be sure to check your owner's manual for the manufacturer recommendation. If you are driving under heavy braking conditions (tow vehicles, emergency response vehicles etc.) we recommend changing your brake fluid more often as it is key to prevent boiling of the brake fluid. For those who participate in autocross events, we recommend you change your brake fluid annually. Dedicated race cars should have their brake fluid changed after every track weekend or more frequently if needed.

 

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Warped Brake Rotors? Addressing the Common Misconception]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- Sat, 27 Oct 2018 00:00:00 GMT

The Diagnosis: Warped Brake Rotors

A common diagnosis given when describing the issue of pedal pulsation and/or steering wheel shaking under braking is warped brake rotors. Warped brake rotors are typically diagnosed when thickness variation is found on the rotor that is thought to be a result of the rotors themselves being warped. However, while the term ‘warped” is commonly used by consumers, the correct terminology to describe this issue is excessive lateral runout and/or thickness variation (TV).

 

Causes of Disc Excessive Lateral Runout and TV

Excessive lateral runout is the wobbling of the rotor on its axis. While vehicles are manufactured to only have between one thousandths and two thousandths lateral runout, over time this runout can increase due to certain conditions described below. Thickness variation, on the other hand, is usually the uneven transfer of brake pad material onto the rotor. Related, both excessive lateral runout and thickness variation can cause pedal pulsation and/or steering wheel shaking under braking. This can be due to installation of the wrong brake pad compound for the car you drive and the type of driving you do, caliper malfunctions, incorrect rotor installation, or improper break-in of the pads and/or rotors.

 

Improper Brake Pad Compound

In many cases, it is actually the pad which causes the uneven disc thickness variation (and ultimately increased lateral runout). Depending on the composition, brake pads are designed to both wear the rotors and transfer a thin layer of friction material onto them for optimal performance. However, when the brake system is used to its limit and the brake pads are heated beyond their operational temperature limit, this wear or material transfer can occur unevenly. Uneven buildup is what results in thickness variation. This causes the pads to oscillate and displace the brake fluid which is what ultimately causes the common symptom of pedal pulsation/steering wheel shake. In severe cases, this can lead to the formation of cementite, a iron carbide that is extremely hard and abrasive. In the case of cementite formation, the rotor must be replaced. Thus it is important to install a brake pad compound with an effective temperature range that corresponds to the type of braking your vehicle undergoes.

 

Caliper Malfunctions

Additionally, caliper malfunctions can also cause lateral runout. If moisture gets into either the guide pins or the piston cylinder, rust can form that causes the brake pad to get “stuck” against the rotor, even when you are not braking. This can cause excessive heat that ultimately leads to the same disc thickness variation previously discussed. Furthermore, corrosion of the hub, where the rotor sits, can cause the rotor to rotate out of true on its axis. When installed properly, the hub and calipers should be thoroughly cleaned of any rust in order to avoid lateral runout and pedal pulsation. Additionally, the caliper should be inspected for proper piston movement and guide pin movement (guide pins should be cleaned and re-greased). Finally, it is also important to examine rubber seals on the guide pins and piston for cracks or tears and replace for the reasons described above.

 

Proper Installation and Break-in Procedures

As previously mentioned, incorrect installation of the brake rotors can also cause lateral runout. In line with manufacturer specifications, both hubs and rotors have some degree of lateral runout. However, during installation, sometimes if the runout from the rotor and the hub are “stacked,” the resultant lateral runout can be enough to fall outside of specification which can cause pedal pulsation and/or steering wheel shaking under braking. While most people do not use a dial indicator to position the brake rotor on the hub for minimal run-out it is proper way for a “best practices” brake job.  

It is also important employ proper break-in procedures to avoid variations in disc thickness and lateral runout. This is because too much heat applied on the rotor before they are “seasoned” can lead to disc thickness variation immediately upon installation of new rotor/pads. You can check out our article on brake rotor burnishing to learn how to break in your rotors for your specific driving style.

The importance of proper break-in procedures also applies to brake pads. Brake pads must be broken in such that they transfer an even layer of friction material onto the rotors. If not done properly, this can lead to symptoms associated with TV and/or excessive lateral runout. Refer to your brake pad manufacturer instructions for proper break-in procedures.

           

How We Can Help

Here at Frozen Rotors, we have had the opportunity to see the worst of brake rotor abuse. We want to help our customers diagnose their brake system problems and get them into the correct brake pads and rotors specific to their driving style and their vehicle. If you would like assistance choosing the right pads and rotors for your vehicle call us at 888-323-8456 for a consultation with one of our brake specialists.


 

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Caliper Maintenance]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance Wed, 06 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT What are the most neglected items when doing a brake job?

We found after helping several friends and others re-do their brakes, the most neglected items when doing a brake job were the caliper guide pins and pad slides.

These pins and slides corrode because of pad and rotor dust (very abrasive) and from not being lubricated properly.

When the pins corrode due to non-lubrication the caliper will not slide easily back and forth as it was designed. Because of this, the caliper will not withdraw the brake pads off the brake rotor after the brakes have been applied. This caliper malfunction will certainly spell doom for your newly installed brake parts. Sticking calipers will cause excessive pad and brake rotor wear.

A stuck caliper can also induce pad “smear” and can over heat the rotor at a given spot transforming that area of the rotor into “cementite” (sometimes called Iron Carbide – A very hard and brittle material).  This many times will cause the brake rotor to become out off true or commonly called “warping”.

Brake calipers (most) are designed to float on their pins and that is why they need to be lubricated. After applying your vehicles brakes a properly maintained caliper will retract the brake pads off the brake rotors.   

Solution:

When doing the brake job remove the caliper and caliper carrier, clean and inspect the guide pins, (replace them if worn) wash out the guide pin boots with brake cleaner, blow dry the inside of the boots.  Lubricate the Guide pins liberally with high temperature grease.

The slides also must be cleaned, inspected, and greased. If you have stainless steel inserts on the slides check for wear and replaced if not smooth. These also should be lubricated but not heavily so that no grease gets on the pads(Greasy pads are worthless).
 
A tip from ” FrozenRotors” ® for better brakes! 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Torque Wrenches]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT Do You own a “Click Type” torque wrench? If you don’t, you should! Why? You might think a really tight wheel lug is good. WRONG. Besides the potential of distorting the rotor or wheel, over tightening will cause the wheel stud to stretch. The problem with a stretched stud is that they can break.

Torque wrenches cost from $25 to over $3000 (Grainger, Matco, Sears, Snap On). Grainger, Inc. torque wrenches 10 – 100 Ft pound or 40 -150 Ft pound run $63.35. A protective case for the wrench is about 7 or 8 dollars.  That is worth the added investment.

Optimum torque range: Most cars call for torque values in the 75 to 95 foot pound range. The closer the value to your intended need the more accurate the wrench will be.

Therefore here are some tips:

1. NEVER USE AN AIR GUN TO TIGHTEN LUG NUTS OR LUG BOLTS!

2. Always use a click type torque wrench if possible.

3. Don’t use a 90 to 250 foot pound range tool if a 50 to 150 Ft Lb wrench is
available. (A center range closest to the value you need is most accurate)

4. Don’t be in a hurry when you torque Lugs.

5. Snug lugs up finger tight and then torque to required value.

6. STOP! When wrench “clicks”! An extra little jerk or extra inch of travel and you might as well not use a torque wrench.

7. Always back off torque setting to the lowest value after you have tightened all the lugs. If the torque wrench is left in a high range it will eventually give a false reading.

8. Put the torque wrench away in it’s case. Don’t throw it in your tool box. Treat it like the fragile tool it really is.

9. By the way, don’t trust “torque Sticks” either. torque wrench

Some Torque Values for Lug Nuts/Lug  Bolts:

Audi                     80 Ft Lbs
BMW                    79 Ft Lbs  + – 7 Ft Lbs
Dodge Magnum      100 Ft Lbs
Dodge Trucks        Varies by year and model
Ford Cars             100 Ft Lbs (Crown Vic)
Ford Trucks          140 Ft Lbs (All F-Series)
Jeep                    95 Ft Lbs (Grand Cherokee)
Porsche Cayanne   118 Ft Lbs
Porsche Cars         96 Ft Lbs
Subaru                 68 Ft Lbs (all cars)

The “FrozenRotors Gang”

 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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