<![CDATA[Frozen Rotors News]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog Mon, 24 Sep 2018 08:38:49 GMT Mon, 24 Sep 2018 08:38:49 GMT LemonStand <![CDATA[Brake Rotor Burnishing]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT Recommendation: Always advise your customers/clients to observe a running in period.

Street Duty
Brake only moderately and briefly during the first 200 miles over a mixed itinerary. Avoid prolonged pad to rotor contact.

Heavy Use (Police, Ambulance, and High Performance)
Have Technicians make 5 decelerations from 70 to 50 mph. Firm on the brake pedal. Drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 40 mph. Firm on brake pedal. Don’t slam on brakes. Again, drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes and then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 30 mph. Cool brakes for two or three miles then park car and allow brakes to cool completely. When brake rotors return to ambient temperature repeat this entire process one more time. The brake rotors are how burnished and are ready for service!

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[How Often Should You Flush Your Brake Fluid?]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Industry standard suggests every 2 years.

Personally I like mine flushed once a year. Yeah, it’s a pain in the butt, but let’s put safety first! If you race or autocross your Vehicle I would bleed the system before each track outing.

The fluid in your brake reservoir should be the color of apple juice. The darker it gets the more moisture it has in it. The more moisture the lower the boiling point. In fact, fluid with a 3% moisture content drops the brake fluid boiling point by as much as 170 degrees F. The lower the boiling point the greater the possibility of creating bubbles in the caliper when things get hot. Fluid will not compress, bubbles will compress which may give you a mushy brake pedal or even one that will go right to the floor.

That means NO BRAKES!

Our Tech tip #1! Pick a date, like your birthday, graduation date, or whatever and flush your brake fluid on that day every year. If you race, bleed your brake system before every track event.

Our Tech Tip #2! Alternate a different color brake fluid each time you flush the system, then you know that you have all the old fluid out of the system.

Our Tech Tip #3! Try using one of the pressure brake flushing and bleeding systems on the market. We have used both the Speedi Bleed system and the Motive units. Both can completely flush your brake system in 30 minutes and that’s with just one person. Click on the above links for more information.

If you are having any brake system concern’s please call to speak to one of our brake specialists. We can be reached at 888-323-8456.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Warped Brake Rotors? Are You Sure?]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- Tue, 19 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT Before you replace brake rotors that have been classified as “Warped” you should measure the run out. You may find that the run out is within factory specifications. If this is the case then why is the steering wheel shaking?

In high performance or heavy use vehicles we sometimes run in to this situation. The problem is usually not the brake rotors, it’s the brake pads. When the brake system is used to its limit and you heat your brake pads beyond their operational temperature limit they will deposit brake pad material unevenly on the brake rotor. (See Photo) Pad material build up creates uneven rotor thickness which gives you the sensation of a “warped” brake rotor.

Please review this information below to help diagnose and fix pad transfer problems.

Vehicle Symptoms:

  1. The brakes pulsate after driving down a step grade or after a heavy use but they don’t pulsate when driving under normal conditions.
  2. The brake rotor run out is within factory specifications but the steering wheel is shaking under braking.
  3. Their are blue or black streaks on the rotor at the pad to rotor interface area.

Repair Advice:

  1. Turn/resurface the rotors to remove pad material build up. Take off as little as possible (.002″ max per cut)
  2. Install brake pads that are designed for the vehicles service duty (proper heat range). Consult your brake specialist.
  3. Check caliper operation to make sure a caliper is not dragging. Sticking calipers will over heat brake pads. Install new calipers if necessary.

At Frozen Rotors (Diversified Cryogenics, Inc.) we get the opportunity to see the worst of brake rotor abuse. We get called when people have brake problems and we can solve most braking issue’s with our Frozen Rotors and carbon-metallic brake pads. Sometimes we need to go a step further by helping our customers diagnose brake systems problems. If you are having any braking concern’s please call to speak to one of our brake specialists. We can be reached at 888-323-8456.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

 

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Caliper Maintenance]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance Wed, 06 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT What are the most neglected items when doing a brake job?

We found after helping several friends and others re-do their brakes, the most neglected items when doing a brake job were the caliper guide pins and pad slides.

These pins and slides corrode because of pad and rotor dust (very abrasive) and from not being lubricated properly.

When the pins corrode due to non-lubrication the caliper will not slide easily back and forth as it was designed. Because of this, the caliper will not withdraw the brake pads off the brake rotor after the brakes have been applied. This caliper malfunction will certainly spell doom for your newly installed brake parts. Sticking calipers will cause excessive pad and brake rotor wear.

A stuck caliper can also induce pad “smear” and can over heat the rotor at a given spot transforming that area of the rotor into “cementite” (sometimes called Iron Carbide – A very hard and brittle material).  This many times will cause the brake rotor to become out off true or commonly called “warping”.

Brake calipers (most) are designed to float on their pins and that is why they need to be lubricated. After applying your vehicles brakes a properly maintained caliper will retract the brake pads off the brake rotors.   

Solution:

When doing the brake job remove the caliper and caliper carrier, clean and inspect the guide pins, (replace them if worn) wash out the guide pin boots with brake cleaner, blow dry the inside of the boots.  Lubricate the Guide pins liberally with high temperature grease.

The slides also must be cleaned, inspected, and greased. If you have stainless steel inserts on the slides check for wear and replaced if not smooth. These also should be lubricated but not heavily so that no grease gets on the pads(Greasy pads are worthless).
 
A tip from ” FrozenRotors” ® for better brakes! 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Torque Wrenches]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT Do You own a “Click Type” torque wrench? If you don’t, you should! Why? You might think a really tight wheel lug is good. WRONG. Besides the potential of distorting the rotor or wheel, over tightening will cause the wheel stud to stretch. The problem with a stretched stud is that they can break.

Torque wrenches cost from $25 to over $3000 (Grainger, Matco, Sears, Snap On). Grainger, Inc. torque wrenches 10 – 100 Ft pound or 40 -150 Ft pound run $63.35. A protective case for the wrench is about 7 or 8 dollars.  That is worth the added investment.

Optimum torque range: Most cars call for torque values in the 75 to 95 foot pound range. The closer the value to your intended need the more accurate the wrench will be.

Therefore here are some tips:

1. NEVER USE AN AIR GUN TO TIGHTEN LUG NUTS OR LUG BOLTS!

2. Always use a click type torque wrench if possible.

3. Don’t use a 90 to 250 foot pound range tool if a 50 to 150 Ft Lb wrench is
available. (A center range closest to the value you need is most accurate)

4. Don’t be in a hurry when you torque Lugs.

5. Snug lugs up finger tight and then torque to required value.

6. STOP! When wrench “clicks”! An extra little jerk or extra inch of travel and you might as well not use a torque wrench.

7. Always back off torque setting to the lowest value after you have tightened all the lugs. If the torque wrench is left in a high range it will eventually give a false reading.

8. Put the torque wrench away in it’s case. Don’t throw it in your tool box. Treat it like the fragile tool it really is.

9. By the way, don’t trust “torque Sticks” either. torque wrench

Some Torque Values for Lug Nuts/Lug  Bolts:

Audi                     80 Ft Lbs
BMW                    79 Ft Lbs  + – 7 Ft Lbs
Dodge Magnum      100 Ft Lbs
Dodge Trucks        Varies by year and model
Ford Cars             100 Ft Lbs (Crown Vic)
Ford Trucks          140 Ft Lbs (All F-Series)
Jeep                    95 Ft Lbs (Grand Cherokee)
Porsche Cayanne   118 Ft Lbs
Porsche Cars         96 Ft Lbs
Subaru                 68 Ft Lbs (all cars)

The “FrozenRotors Gang”

 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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