<![CDATA[Frozen Rotors News]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog Fri, 22 Sep 2017 11:32:37 GMT Fri, 22 Sep 2017 11:32:37 GMT LemonStand <![CDATA[Congratulations to Randy Edwards!]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcongratulations-to-randy-edwards-for-taking-2nd-place-in-the-nasa-great-lakes-regional-championships http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcongratulations-to-randy-edwards-for-taking-2nd-place-in-the-nasa-great-lakes-regional-championships Tue, 21 Feb 2017 00:00:00 GMT After many first place finishes over the 2016 racing season Randy Edwards drives his Roush Mustang to a 2nd place finish in the NASA Great Lakes Regional Championships!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in: News

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<![CDATA[IAS Performance takes 1st place in Houston and 1st place in Mineral Wells!]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postias-performance-takes-1st-place-in-houston-and-1st-place-in-mineral-wells http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postias-performance-takes-1st-place-in-houston-and-1st-place-in-mineral-wells Wed, 13 May 2015 00:00:00 GMT  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted in: News

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<![CDATA[Team Biohazard takes 1st place at Mosport!]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postteam-biohazard-takes-1st-place-at-mosport http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postteam-biohazard-takes-1st-place-at-mosport Wed, 13 May 2015 00:00:00 GMT Race #1:               1st overall, 1st in class.

Race #2:               3rd overall, 1st in class

 

What was first and foremost on my mind as Rick and I drove through the gates to our personal favorite track, was that it s been two long years since we d been here with our Bio race car and how that outing had ended in heartbreak for us when our engine gave out, barely 4 laps into the race.

 

We obviously want to do well and win wherever we race, but Mosport is hallowed ground to us. I ve personally been coming here since I was a kid, for F1, Can-Am, etc. It s a truly special,  epic  track, and was finally back on the Chump calendar!

 

Troy and Kevin had already towed in with our  Bio  car, looking absolutely menacing in its gorgeous new green livery. As usual, our pit setup was rather  minimalist  compared to most of the teams these days. A quick glance around the paddock had me musing how the level of competition was far more serious than during our first visit here and that there were some seriously fast teams competing now. We would have to be spot-on with our reliability, driving, pit stops and strategy.

 

As always, Troy makes sure the Bio car is painstakingly prepared so there really wasn t anything to do, except chat a bit with other teams and then go for dinner.

 

Race 1, Saturday, 9AM-4PM:

Beautiful sunny weather! As usual, Kevin took the green and wasted no time at all in learning the track. He promptly moved into 1st place and set FTD for the day. Not unusual for the lad, but remarkable nonetheless, considering he d never driven Mosport before! A great call by Troy had us pitting under a late FCY so this gave us over 1-1/2laps on the rest of the field who had all pitted under green, including our arch-rivals, who would be chasing us all day.

 

Kevin strapped me in, and I was just trying to maintain our lead, but our nemesis was doing everything he could to try and get a lap back, and I observed him trying to make some rather brave moves. At first I was a bit reluctant and didn t let him go by, but then decided it was kinda silly with the race only half over anyway. Moreover, that it was smarter to just drive a safe pace as well as to potentially extend my fuel window as long as possible and hope for another caution instead. So, I let him by and then followed him instead and let him lead the way, albeit still a lap down.

 

Well, this strategy worked out perfectly, because I was still 1 lap ahead when they pitted and I had conserved enough fuel to have been able to wait for a caution just moments before my stint would have exceeded the 2hr limit! Fortunately, two cars had just come together going down the hill from

T4 into Moss corner (T5) and were parked in the grass before T5a. I radioed Troy and told him I was staying out a bit longer because I wasn t sure the two cars could get going again and perhaps it would cause another FCY.

 

As chance will have it, when I did come around the following lap, the two cars had already driven off, however just as my hopes were about to be dashed for that elusive FCY, I noticed that they had scooped up a lot of dirt into the brake zone of T5a. I just knew the corner workers would have to clean it up, this being the heaviest brake zone. Sure enough, my wish was answered and I pitted under a FCY the very next lap, with just minutes left before the mandatory 2hr driver change. Perfect!

 

Thus, the fortuitous timing of my stop had given us two full laps on the field when Rick got belted in for his stint. During the driver-change/fuel stop however, the entire race was red flagged for the cleanup. Consequently, Rick got held for 10 or so minutes before being able to leave the pits, albeit still in 1st with a 2 lap lead.

 

Meanwhile, our nemesis had the bit between their teeth however, and their driver was doing their utmost to try and run us down. They were turning stellar laps, but once again, their  sprint  race type strategy forced them to pit under green. Rick had driven a very clean, fast stint and pretty much maintained the gap we had when he pitted and handed over to Troy for the final hour or so. And this is the point where the real drama started!

 

Like Kevin, these were Troy s first ever laps on this challenging circuit, and with barely over an hour to go and almost 2 laps lead, our hopes were high. He was learning fast, but our arch-rival was about 6sec/lap faster and very soon they were only about 45sec back and closing.

We did our math and decided that we would still be ahead at the end.

 

However, despite Troy learning very fast and picking up his pace even more, it wasn t long before they were just 30sec back   and then there was another FCY.  We were praying that the pace truck wouldn t pick up the leader (us!) and fortunately they didn t. Actually, the way it had played out, our nemesis ended up about 8 cars ahead of us, on the same lap! So, we were reassured that whatever inroads they had made, were lost and with just 35 or so minutes to go, they were now almost a full lap back again!

Unfortunately, our relief was very short lived.

 

With 20 minutes remaining Troy radioed frantically that he lost drive and thinks an axle had broken. But he then determined that the loud noises he d heard, and loss of drive, was actually 4th gear having broken! Remarkably, despite being crippled with only 3rd and 5th gears available, we were only about 5 sec/lap slower than before a testament to how well Troy was doing and learning the track.

 

Our newly expanded lead was now eroding even more rapidly than before. We were glued to Race Monitor, watching lap times, gap and the clock, calculating that with time remaining and a 1 minute lead, we would still prevail  Then, just as it occurred to me, how broken pieces circulating in the gearbox could be harmful   as if on cue, with barely 5 min to the checker, Troy radioed frantically that he had lost 3rd gear too and only had 5th gear! Yikes!

 

At this point, we were circulating about 10 sec/lap slower and Troy was having great difficulty maintaining his momentum - especially lugging slowly out of T5 and accelerating up the back straight, and out of T10 onto the front straight. Meanwhile, our nemesis had now closed up enough that Troy actually saw their car coming down the hill from T4 into Moss Corner while he was slowly plodding up the Mario Andretti back-straight, building speed at what must surely have seemed like a snail s pace to him.

 

They surely tasted blood and were driving the wheels off their car, while we were overcome with emotion, coaxing Troy to keep it up - until finally, on the next lap, the white flag was finally thrown. At this point, everything possible had already been done and we honestly didn t know which car would come around the final corner, T10, to take the checker.

 

This was truly a  let the chips fall where they may  scenario at this point and that final lap seemed to take an eternity, but somehow Troy had prevailed and trundled across the line in 5th gear, barely 2 sec ahead of our nemesis!

 

While Troy had been busy driving his heart out, the rest of us had been riding an emotional roller coaster, helpless, with our hearts pounding for

30 minutes. We had experienced the whole gamut of emotion - everything from elation, to desperation, to disbelief, to despair and back to elation again!

After 7 hours of hard racing, in the face of such adversity, we won!

 

I cannot describe the exhilaration of this win, at this particular track, under such circumstances, with such good friends! We were  First Overall , as well as  First in Class !

 

 

Posted in: News

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<![CDATA[Brake Rotor Burnishing]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postbrake-rotor-burnishing Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT Recommendation: Always advise your customers/clients to observe a running in period.

Street Duty
Brake only moderately and briefly during the first 200 miles over a mixed itinerary. Avoid prolonged pad to rotor contact.

Heavy Use (Police, Ambulance, and High Performance)
Have Technicians make 5 decelerations from 70 to 50 mph. Firm on the brake pedal. Drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 40 mph. Firm on brake pedal. Don’t slam on brakes. Again, drive approximately two or three miles to cool brakes and then make 5 more decelerations from 70 to 30 mph. Cool brakes for two or three miles then park car and allow brakes to cool completely. When brake rotors return to ambient temperature repeat this entire process one more time. The brake rotors are how burnished and are ready for service!

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[How Often Should You Flush Your Brake Fluid?]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posthow-often-should-you-flush-your-brake-fluid Fri, 29 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Industry standard suggests every 2 years.

Personally I like mine flushed once a year. Yeah, it’s a pain in the butt, but let’s put safety first! If you race or autocross your Vehicle I would bleed the system before each track outing.

The fluid in your brake reservoir should be the color of apple juice. The darker it gets the more moisture it has in it. The more moisture the lower the boiling point. In fact, fluid with a 3% moisture content drops the brake fluid boiling point by as much as 170 degrees F. The lower the boiling point the greater the possibility of creating bubbles in the caliper when things get hot. Fluid will not compress, bubbles will compress which may give you a mushy brake pedal or even one that will go right to the floor.

That means NO BRAKES!

Our Tech tip #1! Pick a date, like your birthday, graduation date, or whatever and flush your brake fluid on that day every year. If you race, bleed your brake system before every track event.

Our Tech Tip #2! Alternate a different color brake fluid each time you flush the system, then you know that you have all the old fluid out of the system.

Our Tech Tip #3! Try using one of the pressure brake flushing and bleeding systems on the market. We have used both the Speedi Bleed system and the Motive units. Both can completely flush your brake system in 30 minutes and that’s with just one person. Click on the above links for more information.

If you are having any brake system concern’s please call to speak to one of our brake specialists. We can be reached at 888-323-8456.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Warped Brake Rotors? Are You Sure?]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postwarped-brake-rotors--are-you-sure- Tue, 19 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT Before you replace brake rotors that have been classified as “Warped” you should measure the run out. You may find that the run out is within factory specifications. If this is the case then why is the steering wheel shaking?

In high performance or heavy use vehicles we sometimes run in to this situation. The problem is usually not the brake rotors, it’s the brake pads. When the brake system is used to its limit and you heat your brake pads beyond their operational temperature limit they will deposit brake pad material unevenly on the brake rotor. (See Photo) Pad material build up creates uneven rotor thickness which gives you the sensation of a “warped” brake rotor.

Please review this information below to help diagnose and fix pad transfer problems.

Vehicle Symptoms:

  1. The brakes pulsate after driving down a step grade or after a heavy use but they don’t pulsate when driving under normal conditions.
  2. The brake rotor run out is within factory specifications but the steering wheel is shaking under braking.
  3. Their are blue or black streaks on the rotor at the pad to rotor interface area.

Repair Advice:

  1. Turn/resurface the rotors to remove pad material build up. Take off as little as possible (.002″ max per cut)
  2. Install brake pads that are designed for the vehicles service duty (proper heat range). Consult your brake specialist.
  3. Check caliper operation to make sure a caliper is not dragging. Sticking calipers will over heat brake pads. Install new calipers if necessary.

At Frozen Rotors (Diversified Cryogenics, Inc.) we get the opportunity to see the worst of brake rotor abuse. We get called when people have brake problems and we can solve most braking issue’s with our Frozen Rotors and carbon-metallic brake pads. Sometimes we need to go a step further by helping our customers diagnose brake systems problems. If you are having any braking concern’s please call to speak to one of our brake specialists. We can be reached at 888-323-8456.

Sincerely,

“The Frozen Rotor guys”

 

Posted in: Brake Rotor Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Caliper Maintenance]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance http://frozenrotors.com/blog/postcaliper-maintenance Wed, 06 Apr 2011 00:00:00 GMT What are the most neglected items when doing a brake job?

We found after helping several friends and others re-do their brakes, the most neglected items when doing a brake job were the caliper guide pins and pad slides.

These pins and slides corrode because of pad and rotor dust (very abrasive) and from not being lubricated properly.

When the pins corrode due to non-lubrication the caliper will not slide easily back and forth as it was designed. Because of this, the caliper will not withdraw the brake pads off the brake rotor after the brakes have been applied. This caliper malfunction will certainly spell doom for your newly installed brake parts. Sticking calipers will cause excessive pad and brake rotor wear.

A stuck caliper can also induce pad “smear” and can over heat the rotor at a given spot transforming that area of the rotor into “cementite” (sometimes called Iron Carbide – A very hard and brittle material).  This many times will cause the brake rotor to become out off true or commonly called “warping”.

Brake calipers (most) are designed to float on their pins and that is why they need to be lubricated. After applying your vehicles brakes a properly maintained caliper will retract the brake pads off the brake rotors.   

Solution:

When doing the brake job remove the caliper and caliper carrier, clean and inspect the guide pins, (replace them if worn) wash out the guide pin boots with brake cleaner, blow dry the inside of the boots.  Lubricate the Guide pins liberally with high temperature grease.

The slides also must be cleaned, inspected, and greased. If you have stainless steel inserts on the slides check for wear and replaced if not smooth. These also should be lubricated but not heavily so that no grease gets on the pads(Greasy pads are worthless).
 
A tip from ” FrozenRotors” ® for better brakes! 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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<![CDATA[Torque Wrenches]]> http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches http://frozenrotors.com/blog/posttorque-wrenches Thu, 17 Mar 2011 00:00:00 GMT Do You own a “Click Type” torque wrench? If you don’t, you should! Why? You might think a really tight wheel lug is good. WRONG. Besides the potential of distorting the rotor or wheel, over tightening will cause the wheel stud to stretch. The problem with a stretched stud is that they can break.

Torque wrenches cost from $25 to over $3000 (Grainger, Matco, Sears, Snap On). Grainger, Inc. torque wrenches 10 – 100 Ft pound or 40 -150 Ft pound run $63.35. A protective case for the wrench is about 7 or 8 dollars.  That is worth the added investment.

Optimum torque range: Most cars call for torque values in the 75 to 95 foot pound range. The closer the value to your intended need the more accurate the wrench will be.

Therefore here are some tips:

1. NEVER USE AN AIR GUN TO TIGHTEN LUG NUTS OR LUG BOLTS!

2. Always use a click type torque wrench if possible.

3. Don’t use a 90 to 250 foot pound range tool if a 50 to 150 Ft Lb wrench is
available. (A center range closest to the value you need is most accurate)

4. Don’t be in a hurry when you torque Lugs.

5. Snug lugs up finger tight and then torque to required value.

6. STOP! When wrench “clicks”! An extra little jerk or extra inch of travel and you might as well not use a torque wrench.

7. Always back off torque setting to the lowest value after you have tightened all the lugs. If the torque wrench is left in a high range it will eventually give a false reading.

8. Put the torque wrench away in it’s case. Don’t throw it in your tool box. Treat it like the fragile tool it really is.

9. By the way, don’t trust “torque Sticks” either. torque wrench

Some Torque Values for Lug Nuts/Lug  Bolts:

Audi                     80 Ft Lbs
BMW                    79 Ft Lbs  + – 7 Ft Lbs
Dodge Magnum      100 Ft Lbs
Dodge Trucks        Varies by year and model
Ford Cars             100 Ft Lbs (Crown Vic)
Ford Trucks          140 Ft Lbs (All F-Series)
Jeep                    95 Ft Lbs (Grand Cherokee)
Porsche Cayanne   118 Ft Lbs
Porsche Cars         96 Ft Lbs
Subaru                 68 Ft Lbs (all cars)

The “FrozenRotors Gang”

 

Posted in: Brake Installation Tips, Tech Tips

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